Journal
Practical guides, local tips and a little inspiration for your trip, from reaching Sintra to making the most of Lisbon, Porto, Fátima and Évora.
Travel guide
11 min read
Most people try to "do" Porto as a checklist: the famous bookshop, the tower, a Port cellar, a francesinha, a photo on the bridge. The city quietly punishes that. In the summer of…
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Travel guide
14 min read
Lisbon looks easy until you reach Belém. The city sells itself as sunshine, trams and custard tarts, and most of it really is that forgiving. Then you drive six kilometres west to…
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Travel guide
13 min read
Most visitors come to Évora for the Chapel of Bones and leave talking about a field of stones in the middle of nowhere. That is the first thing to understand about this city. It…
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Travel guide
9 min read
Fátima is one of the most visited places in Portugal, and one of the easiest to misjudge. Some travelers arrive expecting a single grand cathedral and find a vast modern esplanade…
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Travel guide
8 min read
Every year, more than 3 million people descend on the palaces, hills and cobblestone lanes of Sintra. That number sounds abstract until you're stuck on a single-lane road…
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Travel guide
10 min read
Most day trips from Lisbon are about the place. Berlenga is about the access. The island itself is simple once you are standing on it: a fort, a lighthouse, trails, clear water.…
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Travel guide
12 min read
Most first-time visitors try to do the whole Setúbal Peninsula in one day. Cristo Rei, then the market, then a tile workshop, then a wine tasting, then the Serra da Arrábida, then…
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Travel guide
12 min read
Every honest guide to Porto says the same thing: stay at least one night. We agree. So why would a Lisbon-based traveller spend twelve hours, five of them on the road, to see…
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Most people book Coimbra for one room: the Joanina Library, a gold and blackwood Baroque hall that turns up on every list of the most beautiful libraries in the world. What they…
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Travel guide
12 min read
You have just landed at Lisbon. You have been awake for hours, your bag is somewhere on a carousel, and Humberto Delgado sits right in the middle of the city, which is part of why…
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Travel guide
14 min read
Most people see this stretch of coast from the window of a shared van, and the most common thing they say afterwards is that it felt rushed. Less than an hour at Fátima. A guide…
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Travel guide
11 min read
The best day you spend around Lisbon is often not in Lisbon at all. It is Sintra's palaces with the ticket queue already handled, the wind off the Atlantic at Cabo da Roca, a slow…
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Travel guide
12 min read
You have landed at Porto. Francisco Sá Carneiro is a calm, modern airport, one of the easier ones in Europe to walk out of, and it sits about 11 km from the centre. So the good…
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